A non-local's local guide to Hong Kong

Wednesday, August 19, 2015

I've just landed from a trip to one of my favourite places in the world: Hong Kong. Yet again, it's been an eye-opener. Hong Kong is completely unique - comprised of Hong Kong city and Kowloon, it has a non-stop buzz about it as a city that never really sleeps and has so so many things to offer. A cultural but often very modern hub of East meets West. Living like a local (well, a non-local kind of local) has shown me so many different, inspiring ways of life - not to mention shopping deals - that I simply had to write about it. 

The first thing to do when you land in Hong Kong is get an Octopus Card.
Travel is super quick and cheap, but you'll need your one-stop card for everything. Your trusty Octopus Card (think Oyster Card in London but x1000 better, and they had it years before) can get you from A to B with just a swipe of a few dollars. It's more vital than a credit card. You have to buy the card for $50 from an MTR (underground) station first. It's also a handy replacement for cash, as a lot of the main chain shops accept it as a form of payment. 
Tip: The Octopus Card is very sensitive so it can still be detected from inside your purse/bag so there's no need to waste time fiddling about when beeping.

The exchange rate?
One HK dollar is around 8p in British terms. It's easier to work from 10 dollars as your base
Tip: I took each 10 dollars to mean £1, and then reduced from that.

Transport? So many ways to go.
There are heaps of buses, and minibuses which have fewer stops and are more direct. If you want super speed, head to an MTR station. If you want a cheaper option, many places in Hong Kong city are connected by tram lines (but they can get extremely sweaty). There's also ferry terminals for crossing the harbour and reaching the islands. Outer areas of Hong Kong have train services too. And, if that weren't enough, taxis are very cheap and accessible compared to my experience anywhere else (the starting price is under 2 quid!). Basically you can get practically anywhere by public transport, as you do not want to walk in the humid heat. 
Tip: On minibuses, if you're only going part way of the full journey, there is a yellow button you can press for a reduced charge.
Also, on trams you get on from the back and alight from the front, so don't forget to pay on your way out.

It's hot.
I went in August, the hottest time of the year where averages are around the 30 degree mark. It's not that though - it's a very humid sticky heat which makes you not want to walk around everywhere. Luckily, the shops and pretty much all buildings will give you the solace of beautiful air-conditioning. You learn to appreciate it from Minute One. Lots of locals like to carry around a towel for dabbing at sweat (icky but lifesaving), and it's normal to use an umbrella to shade yourself. The latest trend is now a portable electric fan, but it's evolved from the mini handheld one and you can grab a much more powerful one from many places for around $40. 


You'll soon recognise your staple chain stores everywhere. If you need somewhere you can definitely trust, you've got it.
Watsons has your essentials in terms of 'personal' and 'health' care. Plus you'll spot the handy water bottles. 7/11 is absolutely everywhere for your newsagents needs, and there's also Sasa which is every girl's dream shop filled to the brim with pretty dainty beauty things, and Mannings as your pharmacy (and then some). For homeware (doubling up as souvenirs) there are places like PriceRite and Japan Home Store. Your trusty coffee shops like Starbucks are still popular, as well as Pacific Coffee. 

McDonalds is good.
When I went, Hong Kong was going Minion-crazy, so half the menu had a minion featured somewhere on the packaging. Asides from that, there are excellent perks like an all-day breakfast Egg McMuffin for less than one pound, ice cream floats, and my favourite - the $3 dollar ice cream cone. That's like 24 pence for an ice cream cone!!
KFC is also different in HK - I recommend the yummy egg tarts, and they have rice dishes too. When the menu is so different, surely it can't hurt that much to check in from time to time...right?

Food, so much glorious food.
Ok, so I ate a lot. I tell myself I sweated it all off every time I stepped outside, but the food is good and how often are you in Hong Kong anyway? It's popular to go for dim sum in a group, where you share dishes and eat on a round table with a revolving middle. And drink lots of Chinese tea (the Chinese for this is literally translated to 'drink tea'). Many of these more traditional restaurants can be found in malls, so you won't find their shop fronts on a regular street. This actually applies to loads of restaurants... Often the entrance to a building might be quite small, but if you think about it, most buildings are multi-storey and very tall so it makes sense. You have to go inside looking for what you want, but it's definitely worth it. 
It is also very much ok - and common - to eat by yourself in the smaller places. In some restaurants it's normal to share tables if it's not all taken up. 

Street food is also common, but stay away from places where food is out in the open, uncovered and in the heat. However, some stalls feature local delicacies and will have people queuing for it - trust the queue and join in! 

Another thing you'll have to try is the Chinese hotpot - there are many restaurants where you grab/order your own raw food, and cook it yourself on your table.

Think local, Love Fairwood
Unlike typical tourist cities where you can check for restaurants on TripAdvisor, the best thing to do unless you've already booked is to wander and stumble across hidden treasures with an open mind. If you're looking for authentic Chinese cuisine, there are loads of little cafes which may look slightly grotty but serve up the best char siu roast pork, or wonton noodles. Alternatively... OpenRice is the local go-to website for eateries. For local fast food, chains like Cafe de Coral and Fairwood are everywhere; you pick from the changing menu on the wall, pay first at the till, then collect your food when your number is called. You can get a full rice and meat meal for around $30. And most importantly, it's freaking fast.

Don't forget the bakery
Bakeries are hot here. For just a few dollars you can get some absolutely delicious baked goods - a safe yummy starting point is an egg tart, or pineapple bun (which doesn't really contain pineapple but looks like one. Hm...)

Not pubs, but bars...
The food scene here is epic, but the drinking scene seems to be less popular. Pubs are almost unheard of, but there are cool clusters of bars in the Central and Tsim Sha Tsui districts. Head to Wyndham Street in Central if you want a whole road of bars - there are also lots in the IFC Mall, and Lan Kwai Fong tower. When I went, it seemed to be the hangout place for local expats and tourists. 
Tip: Ori-Gin bar in Central has a signature drink called the 'KGB'. It's a cocktail in a bathtub, with edible bubbles which I HIGHLY recommend!

And the SHOPPING
I travelled to Hong Kong with my full small suitcase in my empty large suitcase, and came back with a filled-to-the-brim large one. If you hit the markets, you can come away with some very sweet deals. Apliu Street in Sham Shui Po is a well-known flea market for electronics and other cool random products, there's a 'Ladies' Market' in Mong Kok (yup, that's the official name), and nearby is 'Sneakers Street' (or Fa Yuen Street) for all your sportswear and sneakers - if you would believe it! There is a growing number of transformed malls with swanky designer labels for tourists, and you'll still see your H&Ms, Uniqlos, even Topshop and Marks & Spencer! Causeway Bay has a whole hub of shops, as well as Tsim Sha Tsui too.

However, the coolest thing if you're less fussed about labels is just to pop into local stores and see what you find. I'm a huge fan of Sham Shui Po, which has loads of wholesale shops, but they put their remaining limited stock outside so if you know what you're looking for, you can pick up some decent beautiful bargains and full outfits from $20 dollars. Judge the quality for yourselves, but I have some buys from when I went 8 years ago which I still wear today!
Tip: Ladies, if you want a fashion market without the blistering heat, head to Lai Chi Kok as they have a huge air-conditioned outlet space/plaza with lots of little stalls. 

Things that are cheaper/cooler in Hong Kong

  • Bubble tea! I've recently become obsessed, and you can get a large cup for $20, about half the price of in the UK.
  • Manicures - I got a leaflet for a Shellac treatment for $80 dollars - that's about half the price of even the cheapest deals here
  • Face masks - they're not the mud type, but a full on face sheet with funky variations like Snail ingredients. Or tamer ones like cucumber... You look like a monster whilst it makes you look pretty. Simply pop into your nearest Sasa, you can get em from $7.
  • Yakult - at around $10-12, it's so much cheaper here. 

Places to go, things to see
Hong Kong has it's very own Disneyland, and another theme park called Ocean Park. Worth a visit for sure.

If you crave sand and sea, and are willing to spend time travelling further outwards, there are a number of decent beaches like Turtle Beach, Shek O, Repulse Bay, and on Lamma Island.

There's a great city skyline view from Tsim Sha Tsui - head for Avenue of the Stars and follow the line of tourists for some must-have snaps of Hong Kong (and catch the laser show too if you can). You can also take the Peak Tram to the Hong Kong Peak - during the day it's a worthwhile walk, with a fantastic view of the whole city. 

I would also highly recommend a trip to Macau - it's a completely separate country but just an hour's ferry ride from Hong Kong. In the past few years it's vastly changed and is developing into an Eastern Vegas - the hotels contain all the shops in the world (and obviously the casinos) under one roof. 

Some other tips...
WiFi is everywhere. If you can connect to CSL, you can get WiFi in lots of shops and on the MTR too. Others will only let you use it for 30 mins per day, but you'll soon see that Hong Kong is a very connected city.

BRING A BAG! Since the last time I came here, most shops now charge for a bag - or don't provide bags at all. It's not only the smaller shops, but lots of the chain ones too. 
Tip: You can get some really nice printed foldable ones for $10 dollars from a range of places.

The city is a night owl. Most shops close around 11 and there are usually loads of people still out and about late at night. It'll be 10pm and you'll still feel like it's the middle of the day. Just with more lights...

Mosquitoes and bugs are a problem, so invest in some insect repellent - you can get mosquito-repelling bands as well. 

No eating or drinking on public transport - there's a fine if you do. And also, you won't see many people j-walking because you could also get fined! 

#ILOVEHK
I do. It's a fantastic place to visit and when you do, you can live wonderfully like a tourist, but there's also so much local charm too. Let your guard down and open your horizons - things may not always look pretty and perfect on the outside, but there's so so much to be discovered. Yes, there are lots of people absolutely everywhere, but when you're one of those people, you're pretty lucky because you've now become an explorer of Hong Kong.

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